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regional restaurant review

by Lum Pennington

Teocalli Tamale
311 1/2 Elk Avenue
Crested Butte, CO
(970) 349-2005
www.teocallitamale.com

This winter in Salida has been an anomaly: endless weeks of sunny, warmish weather with hardly a snowflake in sight. When even my Toyota began to whimper, longing for a cool slick of snow and ice in its treads, we struck out in search of “winter wonderland,” suspecting we’d find it in Crested Butte.

Admittedly Crested Butte is a long way to travel for lunch – especially since Salida offers so many terrific culinary options. But hey, we were in need of snow. And we found it – and the reward we knew we’d get at Teocalli Tamale.

Tucked in a tiny pink alcove on the Butte’s charming Elk Avenue, we were pleased that some kind soul had carved a slot in the four-foot wall of snow streetside making it possible to navigate to the sidewalk, and a rare parking space right out front.

As usual, we were greeted enthusiastically by the friendly cooks behind the counter. Even though we knew what we’d order, we quickly glanced at the chalkboard menus on the wall and chuckled at the restaurant’s hoodie: “Powder Day: Closed Till Noon.” (“Powder Day” posters on the wall, one for 2009 and a fresh one for the 2010 season, are amended by hand with snow stats of those late opening days as they occur.)

While you can get all the usual south of the border stuff at Teocalli’s – burritos, tacos, tamales and sides – and they’re all great and fresh – our favorite is the Baja Mahi taco: a pile of perfectly seasoned mahi mahi, lightly grilled and paired up with shredded romaine, fresh salsa and cheese or sour cream, three to a plate on flour tortillas ($8.25). We added a green chile tamale (hand made, $1.95), a cup of their guacamole with chips (the best we’ve had anywhere, $3.69) and shared the lot, washing it down with a (really, really good) Margarita ($5.25 each).

If you need more heat, swipe a hot sauce or two from the assortment on the wall. (You can buy the one you like to take home for later.) While you’re dining, check out the cool stuff hanging on the walls and from the rafters: a glittery, authentic sombrero; a resplendent Mexican dress, its skirt fanned out expansively; an old guitar; the requisite boards and skis of a ski town. The decor is simple and fun, the food fantastic, prices right, the cooks friendly and obviously proud of their menu.

Pilots of light aircraft eat “fifty-dollar hamburgers.” At 180 miles round trip and 29 mpg, the journey added about $18 to a pleasant afternoon repast. Not to mention the pleasure of the scenic, wide open terrain along the way, and the ice in the Toyota’s treads.

 

Dine in / Take out

Breakfast Wednesday through Monday:

7:30ish to 11ish

Lunch & Dinner 11am – 10pm